Earlier this evening I took advantage of nice weather to replace the distributor cap and rotor in my 1992 Honda Accord as part of an ongoing 150k mile service. Earlier I replaced the spark plugs. The distributor forms another part of the ignition system on this engine. The purpose of the distributor is to mechanically assign the spark voltage from the ignition coil to the particular cylinder that needs to fire. New cars sold today rarely have distributors, instead opting for full computer control with a separate coil for each cylinder (or shared by pairs of cylinders on some engines).
On my car the precise ignition timing is electronically controlled (it used to be fully mechanical on older cars). But the mechanical distributor is still used to assign the high voltage pulse to the cylinder that needs it. There is only a single coil, and the precise ignition firing is triggered by electronic sensors.
The distributor itself consists of a rotating shaft which is attached to the end of the camshaft. On the end of the shaft is a rotor, which is a plastic piece with a metal connection going from a contact in the middle to a contact at a particular point on the edge. The distributor cap has four metal contacts on the inside which are connected to the four spark plug wires. In the center is a contact which is connected to the coil. As the camshaft spins so does the rotor, synchronized with the rest of the engine. As the electronic ignition triggers an ignition signal, it is increased to high voltage by the coil and sent through the distributor, where everything has aligned to send the spark to the correct cylinder.
Since the distributor is a mechanical system, it is obviously subject to wear. My quick and dirty estimate indicates that the rotor inside the distributor will have made around 45,000,000 revolutions during 30,000 miles. Eventually the contacts wear out, grow dirty, and so on. Thus typically the rotor and the cap are considered wear parts and are replaced periodically when the ignition system is serviced.
Here is my old distributor on the engine. The spark plug wires have been removed for easy access to the annoying screw on the bottom. If you are going to try and replace the cap and rotor on this engine I highly recommend a stubby Phillips screwdriver. The job would have been much more frustrating without it since room is tight between the distributor cap screws and the airbox/cooling pipe on the left.


Once the distributor cap is removed you can see the rotor. The metal contact is visible at the top. On this car the rotor is simply held on the shaft with friction — a lot of friction. It did take considerable effort and prying to get the rotor off.

The gray plastic dust cover covering some of the sensors inside was very brittle, likely due to age. It cracked and I was not able to reinstall it. It is only a $1.10 part.. but I think for now the purpose of the dust cover is pretty much redundant. I will include a replacement in my next parts order and install it then.
With the dust cover and rotor removed you can see the sensors inside. These electronic modules are used to detect the exact position of the camshaft so the spark timing can be adjusted. Precise timing of ignition provides big benefits in emissions, power, and fuel efficiency. Again, systems today are much, much more complex and sophisticated!

Here is the finished product with the new distributor cap installed and the spark plug wires reconnected. You need to make sure you connect the wires in the correct order. The firing order is not 1-2-3-4! In fact, it is 1-3-4-2! That particular firing order was likely chosen to keep the engine’s operation smooth.

You can find some ultra-high res images in the gallery.
